The Evanston community has spoken (or rather, voted), and for the first time in seven years, Bat 17 has been upset in the Best Restaurant category. This year, Tomate Fresh Kitchen — the Evanston mainstay serving up Guatemalan-inspired dishes — has taken the top prize. Tomate, with no seating, an early closing time and a location on Noyes Street set away from downtown Evanston, might seem like an unlikely pick for Best Restaurant in a city rife with options for eating out. However, for the Northwestern students and Evanston residents who rely on the takeout spot for their fix of high-quality burritos, tacos and empadadas, it’s surprising Tomate is just now claiming the title. Tomate, 914 1/2 Noyes St., opened in Evanston about five years ago, when owner and chef Tania Merlos-Ruiz decided to turn her popular farmer’s market stand into a brick-and-mortar location. Born in Guatemala and trained in the French culinary style, Merlos-Ruiz has developed a short but varied menu at Tomate. The tacos come al pastor or topped with duck confit and pomegranate, and the empanadas are filled with everything from chicken and cabbage to butternut squash and cranberries. The restaurant — shockingly small given its popularity — often sports a line out the door and down the block at lunchtime. It is bright and lively, with purple, blue and orange walls, and it seems to always be full. Next time you are walking down Noyes Street, let the distinctive smell of fresh tortillas pull you into Tomate and indulge in simple, satisfying food. When you can’t stop going back, you can blame me.
– Ally Mauch